For the stove to operate at optimum efficiency the burning pellets need proper amounts of oxygen and turbulence. So, along with setting the damper (air inlet control) so you have a bright active flame, you need to make sure the burnpot does not accumulate a clinker (a solid layer of hardened ash) on the burnpot floor and you need to make sure all the holes in the burnpot remain open.
On a daily basis I open the door of our Breckwell P24FS (the same model you have) and using a spoon, I move the burning pellets to one side of the burnpot, and scrape out the clinker underneath. Then I move the pellets to the clean side and remove the clinker on the other side. You’ll need to remove the ceramic log first but even accounting for the log the whole process should take about 30 seconds. You can use some “0000″ steelwool (superfine) to wipe the glass clean also. Remember to make sure the green light is on on the control board after you close the door. No green light- no dropping pellets-no fire. If needed push the black auger button to turn the light back on. Shut the stove off once a week, remove the burnpot, poke clear the holes and shake out any ash underneath the burnpot holes. Use Goldenfire or Bear Mountain Pellets and keep the fire bright and active- more like a forge or blowtouch than a woodstove flame. Call me if the glass soots up black, light brown is normal, black indicates a lazy flame.
Thanks for the Question
Since putting new gaskets on the glass this fall the glass continually smokes up. Prior to this the glass stayed relativly clear for weeks at a time.
Do the dollar bill test. Put a bill between the door and stove frame, close the door. If the bill can easily be slipped out then the seal is incomplete and you may need larger door gasket. But you question was about the gasket surrounding the glass and NOT the door. The stove is designed with an “air wash’ that creates a curtain of air between the glass and the fire. Air should be allowed to enter the stove at the top of the glass. If you have gasketed around the complete perimeter of the glass you have eliminated the “air wash” and you will need to remove all gasketing at the top of the glass so air can enter.
Make sure the ash drawer is shut and closed properly.
Make sure the area behind the left and right firebrick are clean AND the plates behind the bricks have also been removed and cleaned. Sometimes techs. remove the bricks but go no deeper.
Thanks for visiting my little site, I hope the info helps you out,
You can get really good results by either removing all the paint on the particular area, ie; the face or the stove top, or you can practice the “two P method”. Preparation and Patience. I start by cleaning the area with whatever liquid glass cleaner I have with me. My wife will buy whatever is on sale because she knows that I use it to remove the residue of the stove glass cleaner . Then I use a scotch-brite pad to open the pores of the surface and feather the bare area into the existing painted area. It’s along that edge where the blistering typically occurs. I keep a roll of 2″ blue painters tape on hand and use it to mask any adjacent brass or gold trim or use scraps of sheet metal as shields. I cover carpet and brick too. Any overspray dries prior to floating to the floor and wipes up easily off tile and sealed wood. The key to actually applying the paint is laying down a very slight tack coat followed a few minutes later with another very fine tack coat. If there’s any blistering you’ll need to re-prep and lay down an even finer series of tack coats. I’ll build-up 7 to 10 tack coats prior to feeling comfortable to spray with abandon.
I’ll run hot water over a cold can of spray paint during the winter months to make the chemicals mix better and expand the propellant. I’ll shake the can every 10 seconds or so and feel the can afterwards to make sure its warm. I don’t invert the can and spray until only propellant comes out anymore, I simply lick a finger and wipe the tip clean between each use.